If you have never come across either fertilizer or manure, the distinction between the two might be puzzling. For those with sensitive noses, both of them have a pungent smell. They both serve as common supplements for gardens to enrich the soil and cultivate healthier plants.
Despite these similarities, fertilizer and manure are quite different. One of them is all-natural while the other can be fully synthetic or a combination of natural and man-made chemicals, mineral additives, and unspecified substances.
Knowing the importance and difference among the two can assist in making the right choices regarding amendments for the soil in your garden. Continue reading to understand everything about fertilizer and manure, and how each can change your garden’s soil for the better.
About Fertilizer
To support the growth of plants in gardens and lawns, commercial fertilizers are applied to provide essential nutrients like nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus in concentrated quantities. When manufactured fertilizers are bought, you can be sure about the nutrients offered and the quantity of each nutrient provided.
Fertilizer, due to its highly concentrated nature, allows you to restore the requisite soil nutrient levels needed to sustain your plants with minimal effort and resources. Compared to compost and manure, organic matter fertilizer alternatives, the difference will be especially stark.
Lawns and young plants are particularly vulnerable to over-fertilization, which can cause severely burnt and damaged roots. An infamously unsightly result of over fertilization is a lawn that turns fully brown post fertilization.
Advantages of Fertilizer
- Nutrients available immediately
- Delivers nutrients in appropriate amount and proportions
- Can save time and effort compared to manure
- Does not introduce plant and animal disease causing organisms
Disadvantages of Fertilizer
- Most fertilizers do not contain micronutrients
- Fertilizers do not support microbiological life in soil
- Adding fertilizer does not add any organic material to soil
- Fertilizers can be costly
- Overuse or misuse can burn plant tissue and cause toxic concentration of salts
- Fertilizers can release nutrients too quickly
- Nutrients can be leached out of the soil very quickly by rain or irrigation.
Manure
Manure is animal feces. Not all animal droppings are accepted as manure such as pets like cats and dogs. The manures which are commonly used are those droppings from cows, sheep, poultry and horses.
Fertilizers do not contain manure, but manure can be used as a fertilizer. Nitrogen is one of the beneficial nutrient resources in soil. Moreover, the age of the manure and what the animals consumed before producing the manure determines its content.
Apart from nitrogen, the nutrient content of manure is quite minimal in comparison with commercial fertilizers. Manure is generally mixed into the soil, as much of the nitrogen evaporates into the atmosphere if left atop the soil sits on the surface.
Manure is commonly used as a soil amendment to recharge soil with exhausted nitrogen.
Advantages of Manure
- Improves soil structure
- Improves water retention and infiltration
- Encourages microorganism activity which break down organic material, break down contaminants in soil and converts nutrients into usable forms
- Greater residual effects on later crops than fertilizer
Disadvantages of Manure
- Diluted source of nutrients compared to inorganic fertilizers
- Can be a source of weed seeds, harmful pathogens, and pharmaceutical compounds (depending on what the animals were treated with)
- Composition can be highly varied depending on what the animals eat
- Release of nutrients is variable
Using Manure As Fertilizer
Moreover, some organic materials, or all-natural materials besides manure, that can be used are: pine needles, bone meal, fish emulsion, grass clippings, and compost. Decaying organic matter like dead leaves and grass or pine needles can also be placed on top of the soil to act as a fertilizer while simultaneously serving as mulch to retain moisture.
One advantage of using organic matter fertilizers instead of synthetic fertilizers is the cultivation of beneficial microbes in the soil because of the naturally-occurring nutrients in organic matter.
This, in turn, improves soil structure and health. The primary disadvantage of using organic matter fertilizers is that they contain a lower concentration of nutrients when compared to synthetic fertilizers, resulting in less nutrients per pound of fertilizer.
Safety Issues With Manure and Fertilizer
In the case of manure, it comes from animals, so it is important to avoid ingesting, inhaling or getting it into the eyes or nose. Like any other animal waste, it poses some risks. It is important to keep in mind to wash hands thoroughly after working with it.
While applying it directly to plants is not ideal, it is better than working with the soil. Just like with any other food, garden consumables need to be washed clearly. But in this case, grown using manure or any other fertilizer increases the need.
Commercial fertilizers, on the other hand, carry ranging sets of risks. In general though, their excessive use leads to concentration of streams and waterways. Furthermore, some manufactured fertilizers rather non-organic, can harm pets and animals.
This expands the circle of affected beings, so use with caution is best. Always read the label commercial fertilizers have and take note of the risks it carries as this will provide key information to the user about purchasing it.
Important Differences Between Manure and Fertilizer
- Manure does not contain as many plant nutrients as fertilizers.
- Fertilizers are produced in factories through chemical processes, while manure is created in the field by depositing animal and plant waste into open pits for decomposition.
- Manure is formed through the breakdown of crop residues and animal waste, which is then incorporated into the soil to enhance its fertility. Fertilizers are all substances, organic or inorganic, applied to the soil with the objective of boosting crop production.
- Manure is not soluble in water and absorbs very slowly into the soil, while fertilizer can be readily absorbed by plants because it dissolves in water.
- Manure provides humus because it is composed of decayed plant and animal materials, which increases the soil’s retention of water. Fertilizer does not help improve humus nor the soil’s ability to retain water.
- Manure is more economical and easily prepared by the farmer, unlike fertilizers, which are costly chemical products.
- Although manure has no harmful effects on soil, it actually improves soil quality over time. In contrast, excess use of fertilizer can be harmful to the soil and to pre-existing soil organisms.
Fertilizer Versus Manure
With manure, there are many advantages not provided by chemical fertilizers. Organic matter improves soil structure, lightens soil texture, enhances the infiltration of rainfall, and increases cation exchange capacity. Raising the cation exchange capacity makes it possible for the soil to contain more of the nutrients and pesticides which makes it more productive than solely relying on fertilization.
The application of manure enhances the activity of soil microbes, which considerably improves soil health. Adding manure improves the quantity of organic matter in soil. Organic matter improves a soil’s ability to retain water.
Manure should not be used as mulch since this practice leads to the evaporation of significant quantities of ammonia nitrogen. Nonetheless, some commercial farmers who apply organic materials such as manure onto the soil surface in no-till systems are, in fact, managing runoff problems by doing this.
Fertilizer and manure work well together. Since fertilizer is a product made through a chemical process, it is imperative that you follow specific procedures when adding it to your soil. Manure, on the other hand, does not have specific guidelines to follow when applying it to soil.
Overuse of fertilizer is known to reduce soil fertility, lead to pollution, and adversely affect water bodies. For these reasons, whenever possible, it is preferred to use manure instead of fertilizer. Because manure is a natural by-product from living organisms, using it aids in reducing environmental waste while helping to sustain the ecosystem. Thus, it is preferable to use manure instead of fertilizer as much as possible.
Common Questions and Answers About Fertilizer Versus Manure
Can I plant directly into manure?
While you should not plant directly into manure, it can be used as an amendment to soil or blended into compost. Without blending manure with soil or some other medium, the high nitrogen and ammonia content of fresh manure may “burn” plants. Plants can be damaged for up to six months if manure that has not been aged is applied due to the nitrogen, ammonia, and salts the fresh manure contains. In composted form, manure with bedding is a balanced green and brown constituent.
When applying packaged commercial manure as a soil amendment, follow the guidelines provided for dosage and mixing requirements. If there are no specific instructions accompanying your manure, the general recommendations outlined below will help you in determining the quantity required as an amendment: integrate the manure into the soil to a depth of six to eight inches. With chicken manure, it’s vital to mix within 12 hours of application to prevent loss of nitrogen due to evaporation.
- Cow manure—apply per 100 square feet of soil:
- With no bedding, 75 pounds
- With bedding, 95 pounds
- Composted, 200 pounds
- Sheep manure—apply per 100 square feet of soil:
- With no bedding, 40 pounds
- With bedding, 50 pounds
- Poultry manure—apply per 100 square feet of soil:
- Without litter, 20 pounds
- With bedding, 30 pounds
- Composted, 70 pounds
- Horse manure—apply per 100 square feet of soil:
- With bedding, 65 pounds
Can I spread fertilizer when it’s windy?
Unless using a drop spreader, avoid applying solid fertilizer during windy conditions. Fertilizing while it’s windy poses the risk of the fertilizer being blown to unwanted areas such as the neighbors’ gardens or the street. Some gardeners recommend watching tree branches and hedges. If the wind is strong enough to move the foliage and branches, it is too windy to fertilize.
Can I use flower fertilizer for vegetables?
Using flower fertilizers on vegetables will not be harmful, but isn’t the best choice either. The fertilizer just won’t be optimized for your vegetables, so the results won’t be as impressive as they would with a veggie-specific fertilizer blend. Although, you should avoid using fertilizers designed for lawns on your garden. Lawn fertilizers contain excessive nitrogen for other plants, and the weed control chemicals in lawn fertilizers can be harmful to garden plants.
Can I use manure in my vegetable garden?
Enriching the soil in your vegetable garden with manure is beneficial as it adds nutrients, organic matter, and increases the soil structure to support healthy plants. Fresh manure isn’t a good option since it can burn your plants because a lot of nitrogen and ammonia is present along with weed seeds if the manure comes from an animal that eats plants. Manure should be aged of at least six months before you use it in an active garden.
If you must use fresh manure, wait 120 days prior to harvesting or eating any vegetables that may be exposed to the soil to mitigate risks of salmonella, E.coli, parasites, and other microorganisms.
For gardeners, it is advised that they do not use manure from pigs, or from cats and dogs; as these animals’ feces have the potential to harbor soil-borne pathogens that are hazardous to human health.
For vegetable gardens, chicken and cow manure are the most recommended; with chicken manure being particularly beneficial due to its high nutrient content for the plants.
Can organic farmers use manure?
As long as it complies with USDA and National Organic Program guidelines, organic farmers can apply manure in their gardens. You may refer to this tipsheet from the Sustainable Agriculture Program about the regulations on manure in organic farming to understand more.
Can you over fertilize plants?
Yes. When it comes to fertilizer, it is possible for plants to get too much of a good thing. The important nutrients to a plant can become harmful when overused and excess application of them can also cause the salt levels in the soil to rise beyond ideal levels.
Over-fertilized plants may suffer stunted growth, become susceptible to diseases, infestations from common garden pests, or even die. Aside from stunted growth, symptoms of over fertilization include wilted or yellowed leaves, ‘burn’ markings and dry edges, and progressive deterioration toward death.
Over fertilized plants should see a reduction in fertilizer application. It is advisable to apply low doses of fertilizer during active growth periods, as over-relying on packaging instructions can lead to over application.
In the case of over fertilized plants, it is recommended to flush the soil with water three to four times while allowing the water to drain fully between each wash.
Can you put too much manure in your garden?
Excessive manure can lead to an overabundance of nitrogen and ammonia, potentially damaging plants through “burning” them. Either follow the dosage instructions provided with commercially packaged manure or adhere to the steps below, applying it to a depth of six to eight inches worked into the soil.
- Cow manure—apply per 100 square feet of soil:
- With no bedding, 75 pounds
- With bedding, 95 pounds
- Composted, 200 pounds
- Sheep manure—apply per 100 square feet of soil:
- With no bedding, 40 pounds
- With bedding, 50 pounds
- Poultry manure—apply per 100 square feet of soil:
- Without litter, 20 pounds
- With bedding, 30 pounds
- Composted, 70 pounds
- Horse manure—apply per 100 square feet of soil:
- With bedding, 65 pounds
Can you put chicken manure directly in the garden?
Fresh chicken manure is especially high in nitrogen. As it decomposes, it becomes a great source of nutrients for gardens. However, it will “burn” plants it comes into contact with, especially tender young plants. You could put it in a compost pile and let it age, or layer it with lawn clippings and dead leaves. Untended compost is ready in six to twelve months, but if turned regularly, can be ready in four to six months.
An easier approach is to prepare manure tea by putting chicken manure into a burlap sack with a brick or large stone, which is then soaked in a trash can full of water for three to four weeks.
During the dormant season of your garden, if you have a period of three to four months prior to planting, feel free to use fresh chicken manure. Utilize it by applying 50 pounds of chicken manure to an area of 100 square feet, then till or incorporate it to a depth of six to eight inches. It can be helpful to the soil’s nutrient levels if you apply it after fall harvest, as it will decompose and enrich the soil in time for spring planting.
Do carrots need manure?
Manure is not necessary for growing carrots, and applying it can have problematic effects. When manure is applied, whether fresh or aged, carrots may develop offshoot roots which results in them looking forked or elongated.
Do onions like manure?
Onions do not benefiot from overly high doses of nitrogen and therefore do not require much manure. Indeed, it’s better to refrain from growing onions in soil previously treated with manure.
How do you add manure to soil?
There are several methods tailored to specific schedules when adding manure to soil. Manure adds great value to any active compost pile and balances it perfectly between greens and browns. If not composting, a more simple version can be achieved by mixing manure with grass clippings or dead leaves and turning the pile from time to time. Active Phase can range from 4 to 6 months.
(If you do not turn the compost pile, it can take between 6 to 12 months to fully mature.) A faster approach is through compost tea, where you place the compost in a burlap sack weighed down with a brick or large rock, then buries in a trash can filled with water for three to four weeks.
You can utilize fresh manure as a soil amendment during your garden’s dormant period, providing there are three to four months left before planting. Aged manure, which has been composted for at least six months, can be applied as side dressing along with compost or any other soil amendment.
Apply the manure to the top of the soil and then incorporate it to a depth of six to eight inches. If you are mixing chicken manure, do so within twelve hours so that nitrogen does not escape in the form of gas. Follow package directions or apply the amounts described, depending on the type of fertilizer you have.
- Cow manure—apply per 100 square feet of soil:
- With no bedding, 75 pounds
- With bedding, 95 pounds
- Composted, 200 pounds
- Sheep manure—apply per 100 square feet of soil:
- With no bedding, 40 pounds
- With bedding, 50 pounds
- Poultry manure—apply per 100 square feet of soil:
- Without litter, 20 pounds
- With bedding, 30 pounds
- Composted, 70 pounds
- Horse manure—apply per 100 square feet of soil:
- With bedding, 65 pounds
How much chicken manure should I put in my garden?
For every 100 square feet of soil, you can apply 20 pounds without litter, 30 pounds with bedding, or 70 pounds as composted chicken manure. Afterwards, till or mix the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches. It is critical to incorporate chicken manure within 12 hours to avoid significant nitrogen loss through evaporation. If you use fresh chicken manure, it is advisable to apply it only to gardens that are dormant for three to four months before the planting season.
Apply 50 pounds of fresh chicken manure per 100 square feet of soil, and incorporate it the same way as you would with aged chicken manure.
How much manure should I add to my garden?
The type of manure you have (which animal it comes from) will guide how much to use. Prepackaged manure should come with instructions. If no directions are provided, use the following guidelines to estimate how much manure to add to your garden. Spread the manure and incorporate it into the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches.
With poultry manure, it is very important to incorporate it within twelve hours after application; otherwise, it will result in significant loss of nitrogen to the air. If the manure is fresh, it should only be used in dormant gardens that are slated to be planted in five to six months. Fresh manure is high in nitrogen and ammonia, and is likely to “burn” plants, not to mention, contain pathogens such as salmonella, E. coli, and parasites that you would not want near plants you intend to work with or consume.
- Cow manure—apply per 100 square feet of soil:
- With no bedding, 75 pounds
- With bedding, 95 pounds
- Composted, 200 pounds
- Sheep manure—apply per 100 square feet of soil:
- With no bedding, 40 pounds
- With bedding, 50 pounds
- Poultry manure—apply per 100 square feet of soil:
- Without litter, 20 pounds
- With bedding, 30 pounds
- Composted, 70 pounds
- Horse manure—apply per 100 square feet of soil:
- With bedding, 65 pounds
How often should I put manure in my garden?
Usually, a once-per-year application is more than enough to maintain the balance and fertility of soil. However, for vegetable and potato gardens, consider applying in both fall and spring. For flower gardens, apply in early spring. For acid-loving plants, like blueberries and azaleas, early fall application is okay, and skipping entirely is preferred.
How quickly does fertilizer work?
Fertilizers are not all the same, and some may be more effective than others. For instance, soluble fertilizers and quick-release nitrogen fertilizers start working within days, whereas slow-release nitrogen fertilizers take months to begin to work, although they provide longer lasting benefits. Combination fertilizers that contain both quick-release and slow-release components will begin working in a few days but also provide long lasting benefits.
Is chicken manure acidic?
No, chicken manure is not considered acidic. While the pH of chicken manures may vary based on poultry age, manure age, bird diet, among other factors, the majority of poultry droppings have a pH level between 6.5 and 8.0. This is neutral to slightly alkaline, thus not acidic.
Is it OK if it rains after you fertilize?
Before applying fertilizer, it is best to avoid rainfall as it has the potential of washing fertilizer away into water systems where it can cause pollution. However, if there is rainfall after fertilizing, it can assist in leaching the fertilizer into the soil. It is best to fertilize prior to rainfall so one can apply water controlled methods, preventing uncontrolled runoff.
Pouring water into specific areas for fertilization has to be done in a manner that allows the fertilizer to be soaked in properly. To test how much water a certain area can be provided, place a couple of tins around the area to be watered and set a timer. Keep a track of the time it takes the tins filled with water to reach a quarter. The time measured is the duration required to fully soak in the fertilizer without polluting the local water bodies.
Is it OK if it rains before you fertilize?
Yes, rainfall benefits pre-filling the soil as the moist soil allows better absorption of the fertilizer. You can distribute the fertilizer yourself once applied and subsequently pour water to confirm that it penetrates into the soil.
Is steer manure better than chicken manure?
The differences between steer and chicken manure depend on the specific uses for a given soil. Chicken manure does contain higher quantities of the nutrients as compared to steer manure. On average, chicken manure and all poultry manure provides triple the nitrogen and double the phosphate steer manure does.
However, if you’re adding manure to your soil to improve its texture and not its nutrition, you can usually get more bang for your buck volume-wise when you purchase steer manure. In short, chicken manure offers more nutritional benefits for plants as compared to steer manure, however steer manure proves to be more cost-effective for soil texture enhancement and its nutritional value is still better than many other farmyard manure. Kindly note that steer manure has more economic benefits.
Is steer manure the same as cow manure?
The difference between steer manure and dairy cow manure lies in the dietary differences of the two animals. The average N-P-K ratio of steer manure, which is the measure of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium, is 14-5-8, while dairy cow manure averages at 10-4-8. Steer manure is seldom found for purchase, but its average N-P-K ratio is higher than dairy cow manure. Because dairy cow manure has a more balanced ration of nutrients, it is favored among gardeners as it decreases the chances of over-fertilization, preventing “burning” plant roots. In addition to this, steer manure has more salinity compared to dairy cow manure. Excessive salt in soil could impede plant growth or make it impossible for any vegetation to thrive. Furthermore, the probability of dairy cow manure containing weed seeds is much lower than steer manure.
Should I fertilize in the morning or evening?
You should fertilize your plants simultaneously as you water them so the hydration aids in the nutrition absorbing properly into the soil. For most gardeners, this means they should fertilize in the morning, before the heat of the day in summer (and to take advantage of the warm rays of the sun in colder seasons).
Wind also tends to be less severe in the morning, so fertilizing and watering in the morning protects against the loss of dry granular fertilizers before soil absorption occurs. Plants become stressed during summer heat, especially midday and afternoon, and that stress hinders their ability to utilize the nutrients provided by fertilizer.
Should I water plants before fertilizing?
For those who apply liquid fertilizer in their gardens, it is crucial to water plants prior to every liquid fertilizer application. Watering plants ahead of applying liquid fertilizer seems counter-intuitive, but it is critical to hydrate the soil as this prevents root “burns” that occur from applying liquid fertilizer to dry soil.
On the other hand, with granular or dry fertilizers, watering prior to application is not necessary. Watering plants afterward is better as it helps incorporate the fertilizer into the soil and minimizes the chances of it being blown away by wind before plants can utilize it.
What are the advantages of using manure?
For gardeners, managing soils using manure has a myriad of advantages which explains why gardeners have been doing so for centuries. The following points outline the benefits of using manure, illustrating the advantages it provides for soil, plants, gardeners, as well as the environment.
- Adding manure to the soil in your garden helps plants to grow strong and healthy and produce flowers or fruit to their maximum capability.
- Gardeners can choose among a variety of ways to utilize manure in the garden. It can be added to compost, used as a side dressing, mixed into soil as an amendment, steeped into a tea, or in the case of composted manure, applied as a mulch.
- It’s easy to find manure for sale at nurseries and garden centers, and many farmers sell the manure their animals produce. Some even give manure away for free as long as you haul it off their property yourself. (If you do end up choosing manure from an individual or small farm, be sure to find out whether the manure you receive is fresh or has been aged. Manure needs to be aged for at least six months before it’s safe to
use in an active garden.) - Manure is chock-full of nutrients, including: micronutrients, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. It also produces carbon.
- Manure is a practical, low-maintenance choice compared to other ways to improve soil fertility because it’s easy to transport and only needs to be applied once a year, as opposed to the more rigorous schedule some other types of fertilizer can require.
- Soil that’s been treated with manure will stay more consistently moist throughout the seasons than soil that doesn’t contain manure. That means less stress on plants because water is steadily available—and less stress on you because you won’t need to water your plants as frequently. While manure is helping your soil hold on to moisture, it’s also helping it retain nutrients, keeping those steadily available to
plants as well. - Using manure in your garden doesn’t only benefit you individually; it benefits the environment by increasing the carbon in soil and reducing carbon in the atmosphere, decreasing erosion and runoff of the soil, and lessening nitrate leaching. Choosing manure also cuts back on the energy demand of nitrogen fertilizers, some of which rely
on natural gas. - The nitrogen in manure is also more stable than the nitrogen in commercial fertilizers, manure releases its nitrogen slowly into soil over time, better meeting the needs of your plants than nitrogen that isn’t gradually dispensed.
- When you amend your garden’s soil with manure, you’re not just nourishing your plants. You’re also improving the texture of the soil by aerating and loosening it, which improves drainage and allows air to circulate around plant roots. Lack of air circulation in the soil can contribute to plant diseases such as root rot. These qualities mean that manure isn’t just a fertilizer; it’s a soil conditioner and soil amendment that can help make sandy, compacted, or clay soils more suitable for gardening.
What are the disadvantages of using manure?
Every product or technique has limitations, and in the case of manure, it certainly has some downsides. Below, we highlight the drawbacks that every gardener should keep in mind when using manure. It is worth mentioning that many of these potential downsides are negated once the manure is aged for at least six months, which is the minimum period before it should be applied to an active garden.
- Because many of the animals whose waste we use as manure eat plants, seeds of invasive plants, like pigweed and lamb quarters, are prevalent in many types of manure. That means if you spread manure in your garden, you could introduce weeds along with the nutrients you’re aiming for. Aging manure for six months will reduce the likelihood that the weed seeds will sprout.
- If animals consume hormones, heavy metals, or medicines that survive the digestion process, those components will be part of manure as well, and some gardeners will wish to avoid applying them to plants that produce food. An example of substances that can sometimes be found in manure and absorbed by food crops include skatole, indol, and other phenols.
- Fresh manure has a pungent aroma many people can’t stand. Once manure has aged six months, its smell diminishes. However, some people find even the milder smell of aged manure offensive. Once the manure is incorporated into the garden’s soil, though, the smell should dissipate.
- Long-term use of manure can make soil more acidic than is optimal for gardening while simultaneously draining the soil of calcium needed by plants.
- Manure that has not been aged can spread diseases to humans because it may contain pathogens, such as salmonella, E. coli, or parasites. Because of these dangers, fresh manure must be kept away from food crops, produce handling areas, gardening supplies used on food crops, and anywhere it can enter a water supply by runoff.
- Quantities of manure that are required to amend a large garden can be hefty—and so can the bags manure is often packaged in. As a result, treating a large area with lots of manure can be physically difficult and exhausting.
- The salt manure contains can build up in garden soil if manure is applied frequently over long periods, and the accumulated salt can damage plants, stunt their growth, or even prevent anything from growing in the salt-permeated soil. Manure that comes from cattle raised on feedlots is especially likely to contain lots of salt.
- Using too much manure—or fresh manure—can result in damaged plants that are “burned” by an excess of nitrogen and other nutrients, though these components are beneficial in proper quantities. If excess nutrients are driven into other areas by rainfall, they can cause environmental problems as well. For example, excess nitrogen that enters a body of water can result in a harmful algae bloom.
What are the three types of manure?
Broadly speaking, manure can be classified into three categories – green manure, farmyard manure, and compost manure. The term green manure is somewhat inaccurate for it refers to cover crops rather than the animal waste associated with “manure.” As the name suggests, farmyard manure is composed of animal waste along with materials associated with livestock such as straw bedding, hay, animal hair, and feed given to the farm animals. Compost manure is produced when farmyard manure undergoes composting during its aging process.
What fertilizer is high in nitrogen?
The numbers on a fertilizer package indicate how much nitrogen it contains. For example, a fertilizer labeled with three numbers separated by hyphens (e.g., 30-10-20) shows the first number gives the percentage of nitrogen in the package. A good example is Urea which is a 46 percent nitrogen fertilizer Whereas ammonium sulfate is 21 percent. Compared to urea/my standard landscaping fertilizers they contain 2-12 percent nitrogen.
What is the purpose of fertilizer?
Fertilizers serve the purpose of rebuilding these depleted nutrients, stocking soil, especially in a garden, and ensuring its levels of nutrients are up to par for the growth of plants. Even the most nutrient-rich soil will be used up by plants during their growth. After replenishing, fertilizers will continue to provide all the important nutrition.
Apart from Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium, fertilizers can also contain sulfur, magnesium, and calcium. To serve very specific agricultural needs, some fertilizers only contain one or two of these nutrients.
In some cases, we hear people refer to fertilizers are “plant food” as they help plants bloom, accelerate growth, or yield bigger fruits and vegetables. In reality, this statement is inaccurate as plants create their food via photosynthesis. Like a multivitamin for humans, fertilizers act as one for plants.